Camino Number Two

So what do you do when you finish your first Camino? Hang up your boots? Put down the walking poles? Swear to never do anything like that again? Nope, you decide to do another one, a decision made the moment I walked into the square and stood looking up at that amazing Cathedral.

This time was going to be different. For a start I was going to be joined by Andrea and B (and Dominic towards the end). And secondly, we were going to do the Portuguese Coastal Camino starting from Porto. Also as there were 3 of us, we would be staying in mainly private accommodation. I kind of liked Albergue life, it was a great way to meet fellow pilgrims.

Our little adventure started off in Lisbon where we spent 3 days in an apartment in the Alfama District with its maze of cobble stone streets and gorgeous old buildings. We did the obligatory free/not free walking tour and wandered around all the historical spots. It’s a beautiful city, and of course, for research purposes, we ate a lot of Portuguese Tarts. Our first was delicious (you’re either a with cinnamon or without person – I’m in the without camp) and it set the benchmark pretty high. We made our way to Belem to try the original and the only one that can officially be called Pastéis de Belém (they’ve been pumping out these little custard filled beauties since 1837). Avoided the crowds by going later in the day – good call. They were good, but out of all the ones we tried, I’m going to rank the very first one we tried the best, closely followed by the ones from Belem. Big call I know, but there you go. 

Andrea and I also visited Sintra, a beautiful old town (yeah OK, they’re all old) in the mountains. On to Cabo de Roca (the most Western Point of Europe) where we froze our titis off and warmed our hands on a man’s (chest) nuts. Final stop was to the rather posh town of Cascais to watch the sunset over the water. Really loved Lisbon and its surrounds and hope to visit again one day. The benefits of living in Europe.

Then it was onto Porto by way of a 3 and a ½ hour comfortable train trip. Another apartment, basic, but in a good spot. Up 4 flights of stairs tested our Camino training. Another stunning city with its blue tiled murals and waterfront. Took a sunset cruise on the Duero River, wandered around, visited Livraria Lello, the famous bookshop with its Harry Potter style staircase. Tried the local delicacy, a Francesinha (sounds better than its Portuguese sandwich translation) – meat, bacon, cheese sandwich with an egg on top floating in tomato soup – odd, but delicious. Kept up our vigorous tart tasting and even tried the tart liquor. When in Porto one must try the Port, so a visit to Burmeisters was called for. Visited Porto Cathedral, Sé do Porto, where we collected our Pilgrim Passports and saw our first Camino markers. The next day, our walking would begin.   

Sunday 16 October 2022. Camino Day 1 and an easy 12km to start off with. Matching t-shirts on, we set off with a spring in our step. Matosinhos, being Sunday, was quiet, but we enjoyed dinner by the beach and toasted a good first day with wine.

Camino Day 2. Another reasonably easy 14km to Labruge and out came the ponchos – it would not be the last time. A bit of rain, bit of wind and we arrived in Labruge with full sunshine. Joined fellow pilgrims at a little bar and then wandered down to the beach for dinner and lots more wine. Toddled back feeling a little tipsy and did the usual shh shh as we found our room.

Camino Day 3. 17km to Povoa de Varzim. Boardwalks, sand, cobblestones, and foot paths. Sun, wind, rain. But overall, not bad. A drizzly walk around this lovely old town, drinks, and snacks at a local bar. B developed a huge blister on her heel – it looked like an alien ready to burst out at any moment, I swear it had a heartbeat.

Camino Day 4 – 22km to Esposonde.  Felt more like 35km. Wind, rain, sun. Ponchos on, ponchos off. The team was falling fast, B and Bertie the blister (which was now bigger than her foot and ready to explode), Andrea and a funny tummy. I just had an extra glass of wine and went downstairs to chat to fellow Pilgrims. As will shortly be revealed, we would all be glad that I got to meet Irish Father John from the Vatican. Amen.

Camino Day 5. A wet and wild 5km as we slogged our way through puddles thinking what the fuck where we doing and then, like a mirage, a bar appeared. I swear there was a holy aura surrounding the place – or it could have been the cigarette smoke from the crowd huddled under the awning. Inside was warm and filled with other soaked pilgrims, the smell of wet socks hanging in the air. We set up shop and warmed up with wine, port, and liquors. After 3 hours, we made an executive decision, jumped in a taxi and drove to Viana do Castelo. Largish town, so we made up for lost Camino km’s by going for a walk. The old town was gorgeous and eventually had dinner at a lovely restaurant around the corner from our hotel.

Camino Day 6. 21km to Vila Prai de Ancora. We were a woman down as B’s blister and ankles got the best of her. Another day of sun, wind, rain, and rocky paths with large puddles as we walked along some wild coastline. There was a definite theme with the weather, and I don’t think my boots were completely dry on any day. The old stuffing newspaper helped, but we never had enough newspapers. Andrea and I checked into our large house and got lost finding a supermarket that was 300m away. Got wine, snacks and breakfast supplies. Put on the washing machine and it didn’t work, so an afternoon spent handwashing. And then the place we’d spotted for dinner was closed. Good thing we had got those snacky snacks and the lady at the local bar sold us a bottle of wine for 3 Euro. We were definitely living the high life. 

Camino Day 7. Our last day in Portugal and unsurprisingly, our clothes were still soaked. So we walked into Ancora and found a laundromat. With dry clothes, we hopped on a train to Caminho, where B was waiting for us with our last tarts. Pouring with rain, we booked a taxi boat to cross over to A Guarda and headed to the meeting spot about 2km away. Along the way we collected Father John and Chiara. Luckily, we managed to get B a lift and when we arrived, the rain was light so a few happy snaps as we prepared to jump in to a tiny tinny and cross over to Spain. And that’s when the crossing that shall not be forgotten commenced. The rain came down and the waves threatened to dump us. Soaking wet, all we could do was hang on for dear life and give silent thanks to the fact that we had Father John on board (see, never turn down the opportunity to share a wine with fellow Pilgrims). I’ve never been religious, but I may have said a silent prayer as I thought of how I would get out of my backpack before I drowned. We made it, felt like drug runners as we jumped overboard and scrambled up the beach. A 15-minute walk to a hotel where 3 bus loads of oldies all looked at us as we hobbled in and collapsed in a wet heap. We farewelled Father John and Chiara and celebrated our survival with vino tinto and tortilla – hola Spain! We took a taxi to our hotel and once showered and warm, headed out and found ourselves cheering on the local women’s handball team – was a lively affair – they drew, and we are now handball experts.   

Camino Day 8. 20km to Villadesusu. A huge storm overnight, but after a great breakfast, we set off with only a few light showers. Lots of branches down and puddles but crossing paths with a fun run made the walk easier as we exchanged Buen Camino’s, ‘vamos’ and ‘animos’ with the runners. Rugged and wild coastline, pretty churches, and a vino in Oia just to help keep us going those final few kms. Our first night in an Albergue, and B had managed to secure us a section to ourselves, so apart from sharing with 1,000 flies it was fine. As was the delicious dinner at a restaurant down the road. Scallops to die for.

Camino Day 9. 17km to Baiona where we met up with B. Gorgeous town and we found a fab place for Menu del Dia where the potent coffee was served with aguardiente. I could feel the hairs growing on my chest as it went down. Our apartment was another 2.5km away, so dinner was cider (when in Galicia) and snacky snacks from the supermarket. 

Camino Day 10. I stuffed up our accommodation, so we decided to spend 2 nights in Vigo and jumped on a bus. Sloshed through the pouring rain for 3km from the bus station but found a great little bar to shelter in where we were spoilt by the owners with plenty of food and wine. Made up for our low Camino kms by heading up to Castro Park and walking around this large fishing city.

Camino Day 11. No Camino walking today. A ‘rest’ day in Vigo. Got our washing done and by a stroke of good luck, it was right next to a churreria. With the sun shining, we decided to jump on a ferry over to Cangas, a gorgeous little fishing village. Spent the afternoon walking around and drinking wine before heading back to Vigo for a light dinner of cava and delicious Pulpo a la Gallega. Not to mention 6 Euro tomatoes (they were good). 

Camino Day 12. Set off energised for a 17km walk to Redondela. Lots of steep stages as we made our way around the mountain and there was a bit of rain, but finally the sun came out. Andrea wouldn’t stop complaining about the lack of coffee stops – or maybe that was me. Our apartment was huge – we had a room each! Lunch, siesta, and a walk around town. An awarded cemetery and lots of interesting old Horreos (granary) around the town. Snacky snacks (I think we each ate our body weight in cheese over the trip) and wine for dinner.  

Camino Day 13. 20km to Pontevedra. The first 3 hours were lovely and sunny. Then the rain came down and it was back to slogging through puddles. Not a fun day, note to self, stop and rest when needed. Finally made it, B had managed to befriend the whole bar she spent the afternoon in. Apartment was awesome and we managed a walk around this beautiful city with its leafy lined river and amazing churches. Met up with our 4^th Muscateer Dominic and dinner was at a nearby bar to avoid more trudging through rain.    

Camino Day 14. 22 km to Caldas de Reis. We didn’t stay poncho free for very long and I ended up taking shelter with a few other pilgrims, whilst Andrea and Dominic went ahead. Caught up at a stop along the way and I considered a taxi as I just didn’t feel like walking today. But soldiered on through vineyards and cute towns and having the sun come out helped. Lots more pilgrims on the Camino now that we were within the 100km mark. Met up with the others at a bar under the bridge and after a beer, we soaked our feet in one of the hot thermal spring baths that the town in known for. Lovely. Another fab and huge apartment. Another walk around this very pretty town and what else for dinner but seafood.

Camino Day 15. 19km to Padron, home of the Pimientos de Padron (algunos pican, otros no). No rain! No poncho! It’s a Camino miracle. Makes walking much nicer. Once again, we were walking past lots of gorgeous little towns. Arrived in Padron in time to head out for lunch and of course to eat the peppers, none of which were hot. Dinner at a Halloween decorated bar filled with young uns and more peppers.   

Camino Day 16. 25 km to Santiago de Compostela, although as we wanted to walk in altogether with B, we caught the bus part of the way. As we neared the Catedral de Santiago, the same butterflies were there. Walking into Plaza de Obradoiro and looking up at the grand façade once again made me burst into tears. Not sure why, the emotion and magic of the Camino, I guess. We soaked in the atmosphere for a while and headed over to collect our Compostela’s. Stopped for celebratory vino and snacks and headed to the apartment which was a bit further out. Once we sorted out a few issues, off we went ending up back at the cathedral with our witches’ hats (it was Halloween), where we found the hidden pilgrim. Wine and food and lots of laughter. Another Camino completed. Will I do another?  Never say never.

Tuesday 1 November – All Saints Day. Being a religious holiday, we set off early to attend Pilgrim Mass. The Cathedral was packed as it was a special service. The botafumeiro was swung at the start, the organ was played and there was singing. Felt very special. Time to bid farewell to Dominic and later that evening to B. So then there were 2. Andrea and I did get to spend the next day and a half wandering around Santiago and then it was time for another farewell. Buen Camino and thank you to my amazing friends who shared this experience with me.